Calvin Klein

A beautiful, innovative collection in which Francisco Costa layered references to urban tribes, ’80s art, handcraft and even, seemingly, radical chicks of the 1920s. It added up to a modern expression of fashion.

Read more: Calvin Klein in Full Color

  • Sand-colored, orange-accented canvas wrapped into a dress and suit

  • A large emerald tweed coat with frayed, pronounced seams

  • A boxy black jacket fringed with multicolored confetti strings

Proenza Schouler

A challenging collection, inspired by the notion of home and interiors, it nonetheless showed the designers in a simpler vein.

Read more: Pleats and Prints

  • Dresses vined with a flossy fiber print

  • Loose pants outlined in cream hand-painted strokes

  • Long skirts accordioned into fine metallic pleats

Michael Kors

Sometimes fashion is all about timing. His conservative-chic clothes, including navy blazers, cuffed denim shorts and belted full-skirted dresses, sounded an optimistic note.

Read more: Michael Kors Doesn’t Break a Sweat

  • A woven bag resembling a rolled-up doormat

  • A sky blue dress shirt ringed with cloudlike fluffy white fox

  • Superwide lounge pants

  • A grass-colored bikini was embroidered with white daisies

Narciso Rodriguez

With new proportions, shorter hemlines and a simplified look, he refreshed his minimalist style. His proposal for layering was also modern — a trim wrap skirt over matching shorts.

Read more: Fragments of Beauty

  • Ultra-feminine Jacquards resembling brocades

  • The mollusk pink of a seashell's interior

Oscar de la Renta

He presented a variety of styles and attitudes in one collection — snooty tweed suits, pretty lace separates, Spanish evening fantasies — but there was no feeling of role-playing. He made glamour seem natural.

Read more: Four Collections, Four Successes

  • A lanky, white-lapel coat over a checked wool skirt

  • Faille cocktail dresses in birthday-cake pastels

  • A ridiculous froth of sorbet pink tulle

Thom Browne

Thom Browne continues to provoke. Ignore the Elizabethan silhouettes and focus on the incredible fabrics and the beautiful effect.

Read more: A Contemplation of Insanity at Thom Browne

  • Steampunk nurses in stiff white lace

  • White stuffed kittens on a leash of pearls

  • Frank Gehry-esque pleated silk constructions


It was just a skirt and a shirt, but done with sophistication. And he refreshed the idea of the practical, inspiring high fashion.

Read more: Altuzarra’s Imaginative Take on Humble Threads

  • Exceptional one-piece tops creating the illusion of layers

  • Enlarged prints of French ticking stripes

  • A tuxedo jacket closed by a single strap over a naked bust

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